"Milan, city of haute couture. The place where the living is fast--and the cooking takes time." That's where Carlo Lai was born, but he feels that he really grew up in his family's kitchen and restaurant, where he helped his mother stir the minestrone and stuff the tortellini. At sixteen, he began to study cooking formally (which, in Italy, takes five years!), and then moved to Sardinia with his family to open another restaurant, El Cervelee de Milan (The Good Tastes of Milan), where they still make their own bread and fresh pasta every day, and cook great Italian food with a Sardinian touch.